NAVIGATING BUMPS AND CURVES TO FIND APOLONIA GUEST HOUSE
Looking for lovely verdant mountains, beautiful red flowers and fragrant purple lavender, rainbow sherbet sunsets, surprising wine finds, and friendly, helpful people? Go to Sežana, Slovenia, and experience all of this and even more. We checked in to Apolonia Guest House to enjoy comfortable beds; large, spacious, well-appointed rooms; and bountiful five-star meals.
But I am getting ahead of myself.
Finding Apolonia was our first quest. As most people know, GPS is helpful, but while it gets you to the right neighborhood, it doesn’t always get you to the right address, especially when the houses are not numbered in sequential order. In this case, the GPS had us turn about one-fourth of a mile early, and we found our hefty Peugeot station wagon (the “gun boat”) navigating up a steep hill on a narrow lane, only to arrive at a dead-end. Then we had to turn around (full left rudder, full reverse thrust) without scraping someone’s front porch, car, or fence, proceed up another lane, only to find ourselves boxed into another dead end. We repeated this process again . . . and again . . . and again. We finally crept to a house without a number, thinking we had found our destination, so we stopped.
A spry, elderly woman came running our of her house, shaking her head with a grin, and saying,”Apolonia? Apolonia?” With her gestures and simple English words sprinkled with Slovenian words, we ascertained we were in the wrong place, but we could drive on a grass lane on the side of her house that led to Apolonia’s back yard. Unfortunately, the neighbor on the other side didn’t seem so happy about this solution. She also was in her yard with her two German shepherds, who were furiously barking. She, not smiling, was loudly speaking Slovenian to the nice neighbor, about what we could only surmise: she didn’t want us driving on the grass lane that also ran directly in front of her house. But why? It had rained, so was she worried that we were going to get stuck in the mud? Or was she concerned that we would leave ruts in her yard? Was everything okay, or had we started an international incident? Not understanding Slovenian, we didn’t have a clue.
The battle had already begun, it was too late to retreat, so with full speed ahead, we turned the gun boat around (again) and started down the lane. We avoided the soggy areas, but the uneven terrain bumped us like white-capped waves. The dogs incessantly barked as we bobbed and bounced to our parking place at Apolonia’s back entrance. Hearing the cacophony, our gracious hostess, Marissa, came outside and greeted us warmly in English and then spoke kindly to her two neighbors in Slovenian, soothing the one’s concerns. The battle, therefore, never escalated into full war.
With some embarrassment, we learned that if we had ignored the GPS and stayed on the main paved road for another couple of minutes, we would have seen Apolonia’s sign and parking lot. We would have missed out on some great local color though.
If we had never found Apolonia, we would have also missed out of some of the best meals of our entire trip. We arranged for talented Marissa and her equally talented daughter, Manuella, to cook for us the night of our arrival. We started the evening with drinks on the patio to watch the glorious sunset.
WHERE ARE THE LIQUOR STORES IN SLOVENIA?
We supplied the spirits, but finding liquor and ice in Slovenia proved to be an education. Grocery stores and gas stations sell liquor, but in limited qualities; they don’t sell bagged ice at all. Schnapps and other flavored liquors are easy to find, but gin is very difficult. The smaller the market, the less the selection, and the selection is never very large.
In fact, we gave our GPS another chance, this time to find us a market, and we were taken to the little town of Dutovlje, population of 517, about 8 km. away. In the centre of this charming village is the picturesque church of St. Jurij from the 15th century, which was a stronghold of the Knights Templar. Dutovlje also had a tiny market and a delicatessen selling gourmet cheeses and meats.
In the market, the liquor selection was also tiny, but we did find Jim Beam Black Label, which made one of us happy. We then left town and stopped at a gas station on the way back to Apolonia, but there still was no gin, so we bought vodka made in France: Jelzin. Supposedly, this vodka is named after Boris Jelzin (Yeltsin), the first president of the Russian Federation, a politician with a checkered reputation. I can say the same thing about this vodka, which three of us drank garnished with lemon slices. I love Absolut Citron, so how bad could this vodka creation be? Pretty bad, actually, when you are hankering for Absolut Citron. Pretty bad, actually, when the only ice you have is what your innkeeper gives you from her limited supply: eight small cubes for four people.
DISCOVERING DINING NIRVANA
So-so cocktails were followed by a most memorable dinner. The first course was the best ravioli we ever had. The homemade pasta was stuffed with mild goat cheese, covered with a silky rich sauce, and garnished with crispy prosciutto, and chives and basil from Apolonia’s garden.
This course could have been a meal in itself, but the second course was a not-to-be-missed harbinger to autumn. Wild local boar glazed with a wine sauce was complimented by crispy baby potatoes, home-grown roasted zucchini and carrots, and a drizzle of dense balsamic vinegar. A perfect repast deserves a perfect drink to accompany it: in this case a nice bottle of Slovenian red wine. Ahhh!
The dessert, a coffee mousse, floating in a decadent coffee-based sauce, was the last course, a perfect last course–one that transcended us into dining nirvana. Feeling happily enlightened, but not lightened, we said our good nights, retreated to our rooms, and dreamt of Sweet Slovenia.